Good morning SE Asia!: 15/10/13

We decided last night whilst speaking with Mr Thanh and a Vietnamese Trucker who was staying in Ba Be that we would not chance a difficult day of at least 100km, and unknown roads all the way to Bao Lac. The road was supposed to be beautiful, but a large section of it wasn't on the map or GPS map so we decided to cut it short and do the unknown section the next day in case it turned out to be tougher than we could fathom. The satellite pic showed the road more or less, but we would have no idea if it was paved or not. In retrospect, we were lucky to decide to split the route... We had planned to go as far as Pac Nam as there was definitely a Guesthouse there, last stop before the mythical Son Lo road. This would also mean that we wouldn’t have to get up for a 5.30am start like we were planning, to cover the monster journey.

It took us nearly 5 hours to get to Pac Nam from Ba Be in the end anyway - all of 43km! This due to the road surface and tough climbs. We had a very steep climb up two hills, even steeper going down, on bedrock, dusty roads. For tourist off-road motorbikers (of which we saw many on the route) this must be heaven. For those of us on loaded touring bikes (didn't see any others ;) with any mechanical sympathy at all its painful. Still, a beautiful ride and epic views through the rural towns and fields. We got lots of encouragement from the locals, and lots of interest in the bikes and us whenever we stopped which kept us going. Happy, funny, interesting people. Plus we don't mind a challenge as long as we have enough daylight to get it done!

We got to Pac Nam and just as we were grabbing a drink and asking directions the heavens opened up. Luckily, the Nha Nghi (guesthouse) was only 2 mins away. The rain stopped after half an hour anyway.

We booked in and it was a pretty good clean place for £6 with a restaurant next door, and as is the custom in Vietnam, good WiFi in the room. We got cleaned up and headed to the restaurant at 6pm. First ones there, we sat down and watched them setting up places on tables for about 60 or more people. Eventually after ordering some drinks and nervously practising our ordering skills for a while, the waitress came over and just gave us a selection of everything so we needn’t have worried! Pork (or something like pork) mince with something like olives and mushrooms (no idea obviously!), half a chicken, rice, sauces and the ubiquitous steamed greens/spinach. Went down a treat and we almost finished it all. 200,000d = £6. As we were finishing, the place started to fill up. There must have been 30 motorbikes and a dozen cars out the front when we left. Maybe someone's birthday.

Went to bed keeping our fingers crossed the weather would stay off for the unknown road tomorrow.